The Grand Palace

The Grand Palace was the official residence of Thailand's kings from 1782, when Bangkok became the capital, until the early 20th century. Today it's used for royal ceremonies and state occasions, and its most important building is Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the most sacred Buddhist site in Thailand. You visit both on the same ticket.

It's also the most crowded sight in the city. Everything below is about seeing it well: arriving at the right time, wearing the right clothes and walking it in the right order.

Before you go

• Arrive at 8:30am. The first hour is the calmest. Tour groups arrive from mid-morning and the courtyards are hottest around midday.
• Dress for the rules. Shoulders and knees covered, for everyone. No see-through tops, no ripped jeans, no very tight leggings. Long trousers or a long skirt are safest. If you're turned away, clothing can be borrowed or bought near the entrance, but it's a hassle you can avoid.
• Bring water and sun protection. Much of the visit is in open, paved courtyards.
• Entry is through the official visitors' entrance. Follow the signs and the crowds to the ticket office. Buy tickets only at the official counters or through the official website.

What your ticket includes

As well as the palace grounds and Wat Phra Kaew, the ticket has included entry to the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles inside the palace complex, which is air-conditioned and well worth half an hour, and, on some days, a Khon (masked dance) performance at a theatre elsewhere in the city. Check what's currently included when you buy.

The route through the compound

The visitor route is one-way in places. Roughly, you'll walk it in this order:

1. Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

You enter the temple complex first, and it's the highlight. Look for:

• The Emerald Buddha in the main ordination hall (ubosot). It's small — about 66 centimetres tall — carved from a single piece of green stone, and dressed in seasonal robes changed by the King three times a year. Shoes off, no photos inside, sit with your feet tucked away from the image.
• The Ramakien murals that run around the cloister walls: nearly 200 panels telling the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Most visitors walk past them; they deserve twenty minutes.
• The golden chedi (Phra Si Rattana), the library and the model of Angkor Wat on the upper terrace.
• The demon guardians (yaksha) standing at the gates.

2. The palace buildings

Leaving the temple, you walk into the palace's outer court. Most buildings are closed to the public, but the exteriors are the point:

• Chakri Maha Prasat, the great hall that mixes a European-style body with a Thai roof — a symbol of how Siam presented itself to colonial powers in the 1880s.
• Dusit Maha Prasat, a classic Thai throne hall with a tall spire.

3. The textile museum

On your way out, the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles is a cool, quiet end to the visit.

Photography

Photos are allowed in the grounds but not inside the Emerald Buddha's hall. A wide lens helps in the courtyards. The best light is in the first hour, before the sun is high.

How long to spend

Two to three hours for the temple and palace buildings, plus up to an hour for the textile museum. Most people combine it with Wat Pho, ten minutes' walk south, after lunch.

Is a guide worth it?

The Grand Palace is the one Bangkok sight where a guide really adds something — the symbolism in the murals and buildings is easy to miss. Book through a reputable platform or hire an official guide at the ticket office, never from someone who approaches you outside.

Getting there

• MRT Blue Line to Sanam Chai, then a 15-minute walk north past Wat Pho.
• Chao Phraya Express Boat to Tha Chang pier, a short walk from the entrance. This is the easiest route from the riverside hotels.
• Taxi or Grab: ask for "Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang". Expect heavy traffic around the palace in the morning.

See our Old Town guide for the rest of the area, and the temples guide for how the palace fits with the other temples.