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Charoen Krung Road

Thailand's first modern road, built in 1862–1864 for the city's foreign consuls. It links the Old Town, Chinatown and Bang Rak, and works best in short stretches.

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In this guide ↓
  1. Why it exists
  2. The route, in three parts
  3. The area today
  4. How to see it

Charoen Krung is Bangkok's oldest modern road: built in 1862–1864 under King Mongkut (Rama IV), it was the first road in Thailand built with modern construction methods (Wikipedia). It starts at the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, runs through Chinatown, then through Bang Rak (the former quarter of the city's European community) to Bang Kho Laem. You can walk parts of it, and each part has a different character.

Why it exists

Until the mid-19th century, Bangkok's main transport was by boat. In 1861, Western consuls complained that there was no road on which they could travel by horse-drawn carriage and asked the king to build one. It opened to traffic on 16 March 1864. Locals called it Thanon Mai ("New Road"); King Mongkut named it Charoen Krung, "prosperity of the city". It was the city's main street into the early 20th century. The city's first tram ran along it from 1888, horse-drawn at first and electrified in 1894, until the service stopped in 1963.

The route, in three parts

1. Old Town to Chinatown

The road begins on Sanam Chai Road, by the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, and passes Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre and the Saphan Lek market. In Chinatown it passes the S.A.B. intersection near the Nakhon Khasem "Thieves' Market", and Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. The MRT Blue Line runs beneath this section, with Sam Yot and Wat Mangkon stations (opened 2019).

2. Chinatown to the river

It meets Yaowarat at Odeon Circle, where the Chinatown gate and Wat Traimit stand, then passes Talat Noi.

3. Bang Rak

Beyond the canal the road enters Bang Rak, where side streets keep their old character:

  • Soi Charoen Krung 30 (Captain Bush Lane), the location of the Portuguese embassy.
  • Soi 36, nicknamed "Rue de Brest", with the French embassy, the Customs House and Haroon Mosque.
  • Soi 40, with the Oriental Hotel, Assumption Cathedral and Assumption College.
  • The General Post Office, on the corner of Soi 32.
  • Wat Suan Phlu, off Soi 42/1.

Si Phraya, Surawong, Si Lom and Sathon roads branch off to the north-east, and the last two form Bangkok's financial district. Charoen Krung meets Sathon Road near BTS Saphan Taksin.

The area today

The southern section has many historic buildings, but in 2013 up to 20 per cent of its commercial buildings were unoccupied. It has been promoted as the Charoenkrung Creative District. There are worries that the MRT extension is displacing historic communities.

How to see it

  • On foot, in parts. Don't try to walk the whole road. Pick one of the three sections above; Bang Rak from BTS Saphan Taksin is the easiest to combine with a river view.
  • By tour. The KKday listings below include a food and culture tour of Bang Rak, an e-bike tour and a historical tour. Check the details: the Bang Rak food tour's listing says it has no vegetarian options and involves a lot of walking, and its page looks old, so confirm that it still runs.
  • By rail. MRT Wat Mangkon or Sam Yot for the north; BTS Saphan Taksin for the south.

where to next?

Back to Bangkok Chinatown (Yaowarat)