Ayutthaya From Bangkok

For more than four hundred years, Ayutthaya was the capital of the Siamese kingdom and one of the largest cities in Asia, until it was sacked by the Burmese army in 1767. What remains — brick prangs, rows of headless Buddha images, temple foundations scattered across an island in the river — is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, about an hour north of Bangkok by train. It's the best day trip from the city, and an easy one to do on your own.

Getting there

By train (recommended)

• From Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal: most faster trains to the north and northeast now leave from Bangkok's main station, Krung Thep Aphiwat, reached from MRT Bang Sue. Faster services take about an hour, and some trains have reserved seats.
• From Hua Lamphong: slower, cheaper ordinary trains still leave from the old central station (MRT Hua Lamphong). Expect around two hours, fan-cooled third-class carriages and tickets sold on the day.
• Check the timetable on the State Railway of Thailand's website or at the station the day before. Departure stations and times have changed several times in recent years.

At Ayutthaya station, the historical park is across the river: take the small ferry from near the station, then a tuk-tuk or bicycle, or take a tuk-tuk all the way.

By road

• Taxi or private car: around 1.5 hours each way, longer in traffic. Sensible for a family or group, and flexible.
• Minivans run from Bangkok's bus terminals, but the train is more comfortable.

On a tour

Tours handle transport and add a guide to explain the history. Look for one that gives you at least four hours at the ruins; some spend much of the day on the road or at shops. Some tours return by boat along the river.

Getting around the ruins

The main temples are spread across the island, too far apart to walk in the heat.

• Tuk-tuk by the hour: the easiest option. Agree the price, duration and the temples you want to see before setting off.
• Bicycle: cheap and pleasant in the morning or late afternoon; rental shops are near the station ferry and in town.
• Electric scooter or motorbike: available to rent, but only if you're experienced and licensed.

The temples to see

Wat Mahathat

The image that defines Ayutthaya: a stone Buddha head entwined in the roots of a tree. Around it are rows of damaged Buddha images and the base of a great prang. When photographing the head, crouch or kneel so your own head is lower than it — staff will remind you.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Three large bell-shaped chedis in a row, once part of the royal palace compound. The most photographed view in the city.

Wat Ratchaburana

Next to Wat Mahathat, with a well-preserved central prang you can climb partway into.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

On the riverbank south-west of the island, built in a Khmer style that echoes Angkor. It's at its best in the late afternoon, when the low light turns the brick orange — save it for the end of the day.

Wat Lokayasutharam

A huge reclining Buddha, out in the open.

A day plan

1. Morning train from Krung Thep Aphiwat; arrive by about 10am.
2. Ferry across the river and hire a tuk-tuk or bicycle.
3. Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana before the heat peaks.
4. Lunch: Ayutthaya is known for boat noodles and grilled river prawns.
5. Wat Phra Si Sanphet after lunch.
6. Wat Chaiwatthanaram for the late-afternoon light.
7. Train back to Bangkok in the early evening.

Practical tips

• Dress for temples: shoulders and knees covered. These are religious sites.
• Bring water, sunscreen and a hat — there's little shade at the ruins.
• Carry cash for entry fees, which are charged separately at the main temples.
• Consider staying overnight. In the evening, after the day-trippers leave, several ruins are lit up and the town is very quiet.

Ayutthaya is day 5 of our 5-day itinerary. If you have time for a night away, Kanchanaburi is the other great trip west of the city. For other options, see the best day trips from Bangkok.